Look in any Alaska community cookbook from the last 100 years and you’re likely going to find certain classics—there’s cranberry “catsup,” donuts, sourdough pancakes, fish pie, and, very commonly, salmon loaf. On the face of it, it sounds retro, like from another era of taste buds—something you might see served with a savory Jell-O salad studded with pimentos and olives. But the other day, a friend brought me a cookbook he’d found at the Goodwill that was put together in 1955 by the Ladies Aid of the Cordova Community Baptist Church. And, of course, there was salmon loaf recipe in it. I thought, as I often do when I look at old cookbooks, I wonder if that’s good.
Salmon loaf recipes date back to when the Alaska Packers Association (APA) introduced canned salmon to home cooks at the St. Louis World’s Fair of 1904. The APA cookbook from that year, “How to Eat Canned Salmon,” contained not one but three salmon loaf recipes. All of them combine canned fish with a “panade,” or rich batter made of cracker or breadcrumbs, milk or canned milk, and eggs. The loaves are steamed or baked and served cold. Same for “Out of Alaska’s Kitchens,” another central part of the state’s spiral bound culinary canon. (That book, from about 50 years later, actually has four versions of loaf—all served hot.) The loaves appealed to Catholics looking for meatless meals during Lent, and thrifty Depression-era cooks because canned salmon was a cheaper meat.
This recipe riffs on APA’s “Salmon Loaf #3”—which is a very basic salmon meatloaf with eggs, breadcrumbs, and some chopped parsley. Only I didn’t use canned salmon—though you could. I used some older frozen salmon I had and tossed in a little smoked salmon to add flavor. You can skip the smoked fish if you don’t like it or don’t have any. The recipe is pretty forgiving and can tolerate a little more or a little less fish, depending on what you’re working with. Compared to the old school versions, I upped the fat, using cream instead of milk, along with melted butter. I added a little lemon zest and Parmesan cheese for salt and tanginess, along with hot sauce for vigor.
I landed on a recipe that is totally delicious—kind of like eating a slab of smoky, rich salmon burger with a buttery, crumbly top. Though it’s easy, it could work for a special occasion if you’re serving pescatarians. I highly recommend dunking a bite or two in tartar sauce.
New school old school salmon loaf
Ingredients:
16 −20 ounces frozen salmon thawed, bones and skin removed, finely chopped
¼ −⅓ cup smoked salmon finely shredded
¼ cup shallots very finely diced
1½ cups Saltines finely crushed, + 2 tablespoons for topping the loaf
½ cup Parmesan cheese grated, + 2 tablespoons for topping the loaf
2 teaspoons lemon zest
3 eggs, beaten
¾ cup cream
3 tablespoons melted butter + more for the pan
1 −2 teaspoons Frank’s hot sauce or other vinegar-based hot sauce
2 teaspoons fresh dill or parsley minced, for serving (optional)
Slices of lemon for serving
Tartar sauce for serving
Method:
Preheat the oven to 350° F degrees. Butter 5×9-inch loaf pan. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl with a fork, working to break up any big salmon pieces. When the mixture is well combined, spread it into a loaf pan and sprinkle with cracker crumbs and Parmesan. Bake for 30 minutes until firm and crispy on top. Serve immediately with fresh herbs, lemon slices, and tartar sauce.